Entries Tagged as 'Missing from the Exif'

Missing from the EXIF: Lightroom Tweaks to Contemplating the day that was

So I finally have a Nikon D7000 to play with.  Sadly it is not mine however, and I shall cry myself to sleep for a while over that.

To put the camera through it paces I thought I would head to one of my usual spots, take just the Sigma 150-500mm lens and see what I could get. Whilst looking for shots, I walked back from the jetty a bit and found the perfect composure I was looking for.  I am a big fan of taking photos of people, where you can’t tell who the person is.  If you want to enter shots into competitions for example, they often want release forms for the subject.  Not having the subject identifiable fixes this issue.

I took 18 shots to get this one,whilst it is either the first or last shot that ends up being the keeper, this was in the middle of the series.  I was looking for a breaking wave and the girls hair to be flowing just the right amount. All the while I was kneeling on concrete to get the right angle for the shot as well.

Here is the Final Version of the Image as you can buy it on Redbubble

Each of these images opens into a new tab/window, in Flickr Lightbox mode so you can see all the details.  These are untouched screenshots, so that you can see the whole process I went through. You will notice a few extra steps, where I tried a few things, which didn’t work, then carried on, such as a black and white version. But I haven’t commented on them.

The time frame for this processing was just under 5 min of actual sitting in front of the computer time.

Stage 1: This is the Raw Shot. So, I know I have the composition right, but the colour balance and weighting of the shot isn’t quite what I was after…

contemplate-stage-1

Stage 2: As my Sigma 150-500mm Lens is in the Lens, issues such as barrel distortion, vignetting and chromatic aberration can be fixed in one click.

contemplate-stage-2

Stage 3: I knew I wanted to pull the blacks up in this image, so I did a quick tweak of the black clipping just to see if it was worth progressing with the image processing. Often, once you start processing, with an end result in mind, you will come across images that you just decide not to finish with.

contemplate-stage-3

Stage 4: Ah Autotone… I like you as much as I hate you. It always overblows shots as far as I am concerned. I always end up pulling the shot back, but it can be a good quick fix to a number of issues.

contemplate-stage-4

Stage 5: And yep, the next thing after the autotone, is to pull the exposure back from the +0.65 that Lightroom’s Autotone did, back to +0.23. So some of the image is brought out, but not to much.

contemplate-stage-5

Stage 6: And like Stage 5, this was a tweak to pull the brightness down, so that the image is a lot more muted over all.

contemplate-stage-6

Stage 7: I needed to go back and pull the blacks up a bit more at this point, to push detail out of the shadows that had crept in so that your eyes follow the lines in the image.

contemplate-stage-7

Stage 8: Hand holding a 3kg lens of camera and lens in high winds whilst kneeling on concrete does of course mean your shot is never going to be perfectly straight. This was just a tweak to the rotation to line up the vertical elements.

contemplate-stage-8

Stage 9: This is a two stage process. Firstly using the Brush Stroke tool, I selected the girl, and the pole she was leaning against so that I could apply a filter directly to just those parts of the image. As Lightroom, remembers the last settings, it of course made them over exposed, but it is handy to see the shapes that I was covering.

contemplate-stage-9

Stage 10: Now I just reduce the exposure on the brush tool path, from 1 to -0.88, which drops the colour and the detail from the girl leaving a stronger shadow and removes the distraction of the details of her clothing, but keeps her hair and the rest of the image in balance.

contemplate-stage-10

Stage 11: Once you have finished doing the major changes to the balance of an image, what looked straight before may not look as straight again. So this was to fix the aesthetic straightness of the image.

contemplate-stage-11

Stage 12: In all the above tweaks the golden colour had become a little washed out. So this was just a tweak to the Clarity and Vibrance to pull the image up a bit.

contemplate-stage-12

Stage 13: And to finish off, just a small push to the saturation to ensure the image colour and feel was as rich as I wanted.

contemplate-stage-13

And the Exif Data for the Shot:

Camera Nikon D7000
Exposure 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture f/5.6
Focal Length 250 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash Off, Did not fire
Date and Time (Modified) 2011:02:19 23:02:36
Exposure Program Shutter speed priority AE
Date and Time (Digitized) 2011:02:19 19:56:42
Max Aperture Value 5.7
Subject Distance 10 m
Metering Mode Multi-segment
Custom Rendered Normal
Exposure Mode Auto
White Balance Auto
Focal Length In35mm Format 375 mm
Scene Capture Type Standard
Gain Control None
Contrast Normal
Saturation Normal
Sharpness Normal
GPS Latitude 37 deg 53′ 28.29″ S
GPS Longitude 144 deg 59′ 6.89″ E
GPS Altitude Ref Above Sea Level
GPS Altitude 2 m
GPS Map Datum WGS-84
Creator Tool Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3.3
Lens 150.0-500.0 mm f/5.0-6.3
Approximate Focus Distance 10

and the Flickr Version of the Shot…
Contemplating the day that was

Missing from the Exif: On the Edge of Night

Sorry for the lack of updates… between a new job and a new lens… hazahh… I’ve not spent much time behind the computer…. So here is a post based around a shot I always wanted and the new lens.

One of my favourite shots of the the setting sun, is the melting on the horizon version.   The one with the full disk of the sun visible through the long light, and just at the point it is touching the horizon, with the extra distortions that the atmosphere gives the shot.

When I first got my Nikon D90 DSLR, it came with an 18-55 and a 55-200mm lens kit.  All very nice, but 200mm still meant I had to crop a lot on the image to get the focal point out of the shots I was taking.  Next was my 70-300mm.  Much better… but still to much cropping on a 12megapixel image to pull the shot I wanted.

Finally I got my Sigma 150-500mm.  For two weeks after I got it, I was running down to the beach at sunset.  And every evening I either had something on at sunset, or as was the main case, a beautiful sunny day would turn cloudy at the last min, or the line of cloud 15degrees above the horizon would still be there.

Now I am lucky I live 10min drive from the water and that the sun sets over Port Phillip Bay in Melbourne for me.  To be honest I am not a morning person, so having to get up at 5am for the shot wasn’t going to happen.

Finally, I get the cloud cover I want, and the major bit of luck the atmosphere I wanted.  It is always hit and miss with sunsets as to what you will get, if the sun will slide cleanly into the water, or play nice optical tricks in that last few min before it sets.  Here I got that balance.

This is a hand held shot, although a tripod for the sunset does make life much easier, even though you have to tweak the position of the camera on the tripod as it will move a few degrees as it sets.

This is a touch of patience and a touch of luck, combined with a 500mm lens.  I hope you like it as much as I do.

On the Edge of Night

The EXIF Data:

Camera Nikon D90
Lens Sigma 150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG OS
Exposure 1/3200 sec
Aperture f/9.0
Focal Length 500 mm
ISO Speed 160
Exposure Program Manual
Date and Time (Digitized) 2011:01:29 20:34:01
Digital Zoom Ratio 1
Focal Length In35mm Format 750 mm
Scene Capture Type Standard
GPS Altitude Ref Above Sea Level
GPS Altitude 5 m
GPS Date Stamp 2011:01:29
GPS Latitude 37 deg 53′ 54.11″ S
GPS Longitude 144 deg 59′ 4.98″ E


It was also featured on the RedBubble Home Page… ( Click on the link to buy the image )

On the Edge of Night

11mm to 1000mm a slideshow

Flickr Gallery showing every lens combo I have from 11mm on my Tokina 11-16mm lens to my Sigma 150-500mm. ( updated with a 1000mm shot thanks to my 2x Kenko Teleconverter

Shows you the range that you can get with just a few key lenses in your kit. – The Distance to Eureka Tower ( the tall building I zoom in on ) is approx 8.5km as the crow flies.

Best viewed full screen.

( and for those who are on non flash enabled I thingys…  go to the Flickr Set here )

All Shots were taken on Manual Settings:

Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/800)
Aperture f/9.0
ISO Speed 200

Lens used in order were

Tokina 11-16mm, Nikon 18-55mm VR, Nikon F1.8 50mm,  Nikon 55-200mm VR, Nikon 70-300mm, Sigma 150-500mm, with each lens taking a shot at both ends of its range.

Shots are not taken for aesthetic value, and neither did I have a proper tripod set up to ensure that the shots were perfectly lined up for focus point. ( A decent tripod is next on the list of things I need to buy )

Update

the 1000mm shot is taken in Automode on a D7000 a year later than the above shots from the same location care of a 2x Teleconverter.  The haze in the shot shows the limitations of long shots as well.

Missing from the EXIF: Lightroom Tweaks to Midnight Fireworks

This post shows how I created this image via all the processing in Adobe Lightroom 3.4 ( The previous blog entry Missing from the EXIF: Midnight Fireworks covers the details of the actual shoot itself )

Most of the processing was done when I got home from the fireworks show, with only additional cropping the next day before it became the Redbubble version of the image.

Each of these images opens into a new tab/window, in Flickr Lightroom mode so you can see all the details.  These are untouched screenshots, so that you can see the whole process I went through.

This covers from 12:54:56am when I opened imported the image to Lightroom, to 1:01:58 when I exported the image for uploading to Flickr.

Stage 1: The Raw Image.  Shoot RAW, if you shoot JPG once you start pushing an image you will run into its limitations.  RAW as the digital negative is way more forgiving.  Further as Lightroom is non-destructive on your RAW files, you can tweak till your heart is content, and still go back to the original if ( in my case when ) you go to far.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage -import

Stage 2: Rotate and White balance. – As all the images from the start of the show to the finish were in the same light, and the camera was fixed to a tripod, I tweaked one image quickly for rotation and balance.  Then in Lightroom, copied only those develop settings, then pasted them to all the images. ( Batch processing even small parts of a job like this is a great way to speed up developing. )

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 2-straight-wb

Stage 3: Autotone. – I never like how many tools AutoTone images.  To my eye, they always over expose the image and it always end up washed out.  But it is a great place to start.  If you treat Autotone as a starting point, then you are o.k… it never should be an end point.  Also I find, at least with my Nikon NEF (RAW), that the image always looks insipid, especially bright colours.  So expect to have more work after using this feature.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 3-autotone

Stage 4: Brightness. – First thing to fix after the AutoTone, is brightness.  This was an image taken at midnight, I want the fireworks to standout, not the sky, or the water.  In this case, even a small reduction in brightness, brings the fireworks out of the sky.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 4-brightness

Stage 5: Fill Light. AutoTone also introduces a fill light. Great for bringing objects out of a shadow.  But once again, that is not what I was after.  Drop the fill light right back for this style of image.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 5-fill-light

Stage 6: Black Clipping. Pushing the black levels up, pulls the bright colours of the fireworks out of the background.  Also a small increase in black levels can hide a multitude of sins.  Be careful not to push it to far, as it can go from forgiving to punishing an image very quickly.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 6-black-clipping

Stage 7: Exposure. Here I pushed the Exposure of the image up just a fraction.  Suddenly the colours that were a bit dulled with the Black Clipping and Fill Light, push back up, giving the image its vibrancy once more. ( Also don’t be afraid to play with the Vibrance and Saturation modes in the Presence panel, these can help lift an image. )

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 7-exposure

Stage 8: Crop – Possible the most important stage in this images development.  One that can take a broad image redress the balance issues and transform it to a striking image. In the first instance it was to balance the image to the rotation that had been put on the image in import. Then I major crop to pull out a lot of the empty space that was the sky.  Lightroom in crop modes gives you a nice rule of thirds crop tool.  So I balanced the image around a series of thirds for the fireworks and the sky above the skyscrapers.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 8-crop

Stage 9: Angle Correction  – Don’t you hate, when you fix and angle and it still isn’t right.  Once the image was  initially cropped, I could see the leading lines clearer and the horizon looked a fraction out.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 9-angle

Stage 10: Lens Flare Removal – 3 annoying green dots appeared on the image.  Small lens flares from the bright light of the fireworks.  Lucky for me, these could be quickly and easily removed as they were in a black area of sky, and not hanging over an important part of the image.  If they had been, it would have been a lot of work to clean these up.  And Photoshop would have been the tool I would have had to switch to.  The Spot Removal Tool can quickly pull pixels from a reference area and this only takes a few seconds to get rid of what really are just blemishes on the image.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 10-lensflare-removal

Stage 11: Aircraft Removal – Once again using the Spot Removal tool, I removed the 3 little traces of light that were in the image that were the aircraft that were filming (I presume), the show.  At such a short exposure, the lines they made only served to act as distracting elements in the final shot.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 11-aircraft-removal

Stage 12: Final Crop for Redbubble – Looking at this image the next day, I really wasn’t happy with the balance of the image.  It had to much space on the left hand side, and it was still way to top heavy. Before uploading the image for sale, I tweaked the crop to balance the image better, and give it its final aspect ratio as well.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne -Stage 12-final-redbubblecrop

Anyway I hope you can see from above, that 5 min in Lightroom can take a good image and help to transform it up at least a few levels.  Apart from managing my complete image libary, 90% of my images never leave Lightroom, I can do all the “digital developing” I need just in the one tool.

Remember if you buy a copy of this image… the money will help me buy more camera equipment… ( Next on the list the Sigma 50-500mm OS, which would have given me even betterer shots :-) )

Missing from the EXIF: Midnight Fireworks

New Years Eve… if you are lucky with the weather and the crowds can result in some great fireworks shots. This is the process I went through to ensure I got the shots I wanted.

First thing to do is plan. Where are you going to be, what shots do you want, and how much time are you willing to spend to get them. Getting in nice and close to the action is all well and good, but does require a big investment in time and patience. In Sydney, that can mean setting up at 8am for a midnight shoot, fighting the crowds all day to keep that clear line of sight. A clear line of sight, that come the 10 second count down can disappear in a flash as people stand up around you. In Melbourne, it isn’t quite that bad, but facing crowds for 6+ hours to get a shot, was not how I wanted to spend my New Years Eve.

So I took an easy way out… I went for the long shot. The whole of city across some water was what I was aiming for. Luckily for me, my fav place to shoot sunsets provided just the view I knew I wanted. So I had the shots pre-planned in my head some days before hand and didn’t have to fight crowds and traffic to get them.

Next on the list is practice. The midnight fireworks show might run for 10minutes. That is not the time to be changing your lens, testing focal settings, and different exposures and apertures. That 10min is all about getting the photos. In Australia (not sure about other places around the world), there are two shows. The family friendly version, much shorter, and just after dusk, and the main event. So I headed to the beach 1 hour before the first show to do a practice run. The one hour also meant I still could get a few shots of the sunset, and work out the best place to be before the fireworks started.

Whilst waiting, it is a good time to get some shots in as well. We had a stunning sunset on the 31 of December 2010….

Final Sunset of 2010 #nyemelb

So a few shots of that… help to tell a story, that of the whole evening….

I originally had my self set up on the Jetty at North Road, with only a few people sitting on it, it seemed to give me the shots I wanted over the water to the city skyline.  But then as more and more people walked on the Jetty, I noticed a small problem.  Camera shake.  Every single person that walked on the metal jetty gave the camera lens a small vibration.  Now shooting at 100mm plus and aiming for 3second exposures was just not going to work.  But I still had plenty of time to move to a new location just off the Jetty itself.

This then gave me another great shot.. The crowd on the Jetty, on dusk waiting for the show to being.

Waiting for the show #nyemelb

I had a rough idea of the camera settings I was going to be using… but as always the actual light at the time always change things.  The other big factor is wind.  A small breeze on the camera unless you have a very heavy tripod and a sandbag will give you camera shake.  Camera shake = ruined photo.  And this was a problem for me coupled with the choice of lens I made for the first of the evenings displays.  I only managed a few good shots.  Shots that were in focus, had a nice display of fireworks and didn’t have camera shake.

Let the Show Begin #nyemelb

EXIF on this shot…

Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 1.6seconds
Aperture f/8.0
Focal Length 200 mm
ISO Speed 200
Lens: Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3
Exposure Program Manual

I did attempt a few shots with my longer 70-300mm lens, but this lens (like the Sigma) doesn’t have Vibration Reduction (also known as IS or OS or VR ). With the slight breeze and the longer focal range, all of these shots bar a couple just didn’t work out.  So I knew that when I went back for the main event, I would take my trusty 55-200mm Nikkor VR kit lens.  Under 200mm was still going to give me the shot I wanted anyway. And every little bit helps as they say.

So after getting these shots it was a quick 10min drive home to download the shots onto the computer and see what I had via lightroom.  As much as I love the big screen on the Nikon D90, nothing beats looking at the shots on a 24″ 1920×1080 monitor to check for focus and clarity.  This one of the big advantages of going for the long shot, over the close up shot.

Now, I was ready, I could empty the card for the evening, make sure my battery was fully charged, that the remote was working correctly and the most important thing, that I was sober.  Taking good photos on New Years Eve does mean you will miss out on a few drinks.  A clear head is certainly required.

Back to the beach I went, 3/4 of an hour before the main event.  But unlike last time, there was no stuffing around trying to work out where to stand and what the shots would or would not look like.  Tripod was set up front row on the breakwater, so no one could stand in front of me, and I was ready for the main event.

And away I went.  I did some test shots over the city just before midnight, to make sure that the Exposure and Aperture were correct.  10 second count down…  and the show is on.

It is a great thing to watch, and that is what I did.  Using the wireless remote I didn’t have to touch the camera, just change focal lens a few times to get some different shots. Fire off some shots, quick look at the viewfinder, whilst still watching the show, fire off some more.. repeat.  10minutes is not long….

Get home, quick process to put up a shot just showing the event, then leave it for the evening…

Next day, spend some time in lightroom, delete the junk shots no point in keeping them… Then check all your keepers for white balance, crop, angle, sharpness, colour, e.t.c.  I ended up with 4 keepers that I have put up on Redbubble from that evening.

But this is the shot that most people seemed to love.

Midnight Fireworks in Melbourne #nyemelb

The EXIF Info:

Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 1.6seconds
Aperture f/4.5
Focal Length 102 mm
ISO Speed 200
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash No Flash
Date and Time (Modified) 2011:01:01 01:02:01
Exposure Program Manual
Date and Time (Digitized) 2011:01:01 00:04:58
Exposure Mode Manual
White Balance Auto
Focal Length In35mm Format 153 mm
Creator Tool Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3.3
Lens Nikkor 55.0-200.0 mm f/4.0-5.6 VR

So as you can see from this overly long blog post…. a bit of thought and effort does go into these shots.

I hope you enjoy them as much as I did in taking them.

The versions on Redbubble, are all with different coloured fireworks and a different colour dominating the shot.  This is so that you can choose a framed print that has a colour that suits the space you are putting it in. ( and please do buy them :-) from  Redbubble ( it does help me buy more camera equipment ) )

( And the complete Flickr Set is here of all the fireworks shots plus the ones above. )

Behind the Exif: Bolt ( Lightroom Tutorial – Why I shoot Raw!)

Remember my photo of the bolt of lightning from the other day, I thought I would show you how I went from the photo to the final image via Lightroom 3.3.

This also may help to show why I use Lightroom all the time for my post processing, and why I shoot RAW.

(All the images open in a new window, in lightbox mode )

Stage 1: Opening the Raw file in Lightroom, which shows you the shot as taken.  On the large version of the image you can see all the details about the image.

1/8 - lighting-import-raw

Stage 2: A gradient filter is placed on the bottom right hand corner, where the image is obviously over blown from the lightning bolt. ( You will notice a new box of controls has opened underneath the Histogram, which are the Exposure, Brightness, Clarity, Contrast etc controls just for the gradient ) I drew a gradient in the bottom right hand corner to deal with the lightning bolt only.

2/8 - lighting-add-grad-filter

Stage 3: This was a fix to the Saturation. The Graduated Filter always remembers the last settings it was on. So I needed to reset the values back to default settings, so then I could establish the baseline values I was after.

3/8 - lighting-filter-exposure

Stage 4: Dramatically under exposing this part of the shot, whilst on the gradient brought the bolt out of the background.

4/8 - lighting-final-filter-brightness

Stage 5: This was a change to the Brightness only on the gradient. This meant I could pull the corner of the image down from its over exposed values.

5/8 -lighting-finish-filter

Stage 6: Cropping took the longest to get right. I wanted to pull the shot in for the most dramatic effect, whilst still having a large enough image.  Also I wanted to keep some of the foreground elements in place to frame the image. You may also notice the Histogram for the image is now a lot more balanced as well, post crop.

6/8 - lighting-crop

Stage 7: White balance is very easy to configure in Lightroom, via the eyedropper.  Moving the eyedropper around the image, you can see the change in real-time in the small preview window.  I went for a colour that was closer to reality from the clouds, than the lightning.

7/8 - lighting-whitebalance

Stage 8: A small tweak to the Contrast and Clarity of the image, just to bring the lightning bolt out and sharpen the image a bit. Then Export. ( I have a Flickr template set up, which is 1920px along the long edge and 72dpi )

8/8 - lighting-final

This took about 5 min to get right, most of which was playing with the crop. ( The shot was taken outside my house at 10:52,  then the time codes were 10:58 import, 11:04 export )

As you can see, shooting with RAW, meant that I got a good photo out of what would have been a bad JPG. My only regret is that I had to crop to much, but that was the weathers fault, not mine ( well I am blaming the weather ).

The EXIF info:

Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 30
Aperture f/11.0
Focal Length 18 mm
ISO Speed 400
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Date and Time (Original) 2010:12:19 22:52:06
Date and Time (Modified) 2010:12:19 23:04:58
Exposure Program Manual

And the final Shot…..

Bolt

Ten of my fav shots of 2010

In no particular order….. with a few details on why I choose each of them.

Of course, I will walk away from this blog post, and go… oh shit, what about x or y…  but these are the stand outs for differing reasons.

But one thing these shots have in common is getting out there.  Sitting behind the computer may get you a few shots, but going out in the rain, the heat, the crowds, the isolation will get you the good photos.

10,000 Meters

10,000 Meters

Taken from an aircraft window, the colour for me tells the story.  This is one of my no subject matter shots, that says photography is still art.
Buy this at Redbubble

Freeeeedom

Freeeeedom

Taken at Brighton Beach, this shot for me is about fun, summer and expression. And a lot of luck to get all the elements and the camera in play at the same time.
Buy this at Redbubble

The end of 10

The end of 10

Oh so many sunsets to choose from….  This one has it all, the light, the colour, shapes and silhouettes.
Buy this at Redbubble

Voting in Australia

Voting in Australia #snagvotes

I was really pleased with this shot, one a quite a few, trying to capture what Voting in Australia really means.

Peace Love Brains

Peace Love Brains

For the life of me, I have no idea how I got the lighting on this shot so right. Taken at the Melbourne Zombie shuffle.

We Shall Remember them

We Shall Remember them

This is the first dawn service I have got up for in quite sometime.  One of the hard things, was trying to find a place to get a photo from, due to the crowds.
Buy this at Redbubble

Some people are just born Republicans

Some people are just born Republicans

Taken the day after I got my new 300mm lens, this is a still photo as a story.

The Way Home

The Way Home

Still one of my all time fav shots. This shot is a what the camera see’s, not what I saw.  And is the shot I was aiming for. I could see all the details in the dim light, I set the shot up to remove them and it worked.
Buy this at Redbubble

Closing up for the Day

Closing up for the Day

The depth of field and colouring in this shot all just sat together perfectly for me.
Buy this at Redbubble

@JohnBirmingham signing his new book After America

@JohnBirmingham signing his new book After America (Close up)

I was trying to get a photo of John, but one that told a story, not just a “fan” photo. This I felt was the essence of why he was where he was at the time.

Missing from the Exif: Sometimes the light is perfect

Magic hour, the hour around sunrise and sunset is called that for a reason.  The best light can be found when you have  a touch of luck and a lot of patience.  This shot was taken from what was a fairly average sunset.  But instead of putting the camera away and heading home, I stayed out for another 30 minutes, to grab the last touch of light.

In taking this shot, I wanted the whole sky, even with my 11-16mm Tokina, I still didn’t feel I had the whole sky.  Thus I went for the panorama.  When lining up the shot, the one thing I did notice, standing on the foreshore was the small waves lapping on the shore.  When trying to line up a panorama, waves are just a path to heart ache.  So I walked out till I was thigh deep in the water, passed the lapping waves.

This is a handheld panorama of about 10 shots, with a lot of overlap.  When shooting panorama’s always shoot in manual mode.  That way, when the shots merge, you will have consistent levels across each shot. Checking one shot that balances the light and dark will mean that your levels will be averaged out. The final image is 6335 x 4133 ( compared to 4288×2848 from the D90 )

Also this was one of my first sunset walks with the new GPS, but for some reason, my GPS decided I was 10 meters above sea level.

Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 0.004 sec (1/250)
Aperture f/6.3
Focal Length 16 mm
ISO Speed 250
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash No Flash
Date and Time (Modified) 2010:12:04 21:56:54
Exposure Program Manual
Date and Time (Original) 2010:12:04 20:44:05.00+11:00
Date and Time (Digitized) 2010:12:04 20:44:05
Max Aperture Value 2.8
Custom Rendered Normal
Exposure Mode Manual
White Balance Auto
Focal Length In35mm Format 24 mm
Image Number 87921
Lens 11.0-16.0 mm f/2.8
GPS Version ID 2.2.0.0
GPS Latitude 37 deg 54′ 57.54″ S
GPS Longitude 144 deg 59′ 8.35″ E
GPS Altitude Ref Above Sea Level
GPS Altitude 10 m
GPS Date Time 2010:12:04 09:44:02Z
GPS Satellites 10
GPS Img Direction Ref Magnetic North
GPS Img Direction 8.3

( Linked image is to lightboxed version as well, which looks much nicer )

Sometimes the light is perfect

And you can buy this as a print from RedBubble as well

Yeah… am a finalist in a real comp…..

They say being Nominated is an honour… well for me it is….

the below photo has been short listed in the Flickr Getty Images Grab Comp. ( See the other finalists here.. http://bit.ly/gO8d8R )

Blue Evening Ride

This one one of my evening wandering shots around Melbourne, whilst Mrs Wolfcat was in her art class.

Taking this shot was surprisingly hard.  The bridge that you stand on to get this view gets a very nice bounce when people walk on it.  So even an 8 second exposure means you have to check that people aren’t coming on the bridge at the same time.  I chose this shot over the others I took that night to put up as it managed to get its own story with the blue.  As the Ferris wheel moves it cycles through colours, so there was more than a touch of luck in this shot getting the last of the blue in the sky and the wheel at the same time.

For those that were wondering the EXIF behind the shot:

Camera:  Nikon D90
Exposure: 8 Seconds
Aperture: f/9.0
Focal Length: 15 mm
Lens: Tokina 11-16mm f2.8
ISO Speed: 250
Flash: No Flash
Exposure Program: Manual

I’m not sure of the opening times, but all twenty finalists, but it should be on display at the Challis Studios, 29 Challis Ave, Potts Point NSW 2010, from Dec 2.

And of course you can buy this image at Redbubble as well….


Missing from the Exif: La La Falls/The Falls

The FallsThese are basically the same shot, so I can get a two for one deal on this post.

Sometimes when you are out taking photos, it does pay to follow your heart. Or in this case, the car in front of you. Having driven up to the Upper Yarra Dam, to get shots of it filling up nicely, and to act as reference shots if the dam does reach the spill way, I got stuck behind a car coming back. And when the car in front of you slows down on the corners and speeds up on the straight stretches, you know you going to get frustrated.

This is what happened to me most of the way back. But being on the lookout for photos anyway when I saw an opportunity, I took it. Having never seen the sign for La La Falls before, I saw the sign and went… hmmm, water fall… hmmm, lots of rain, hmmm, waterfall will be working. Ironically, the slow car in front of me had the same destination in mind. So after stalking them through the back streets of Warburton, we ended up at the same car park.

At the carpark you are faced with a sign.. “3.5km return: Moderate”. So a quick phone call to Mrs Wolfcat, to inform her that I was traipsing off into the bush was in order (Always let people know where you are going). So camera in hand and my tripod over the shoulder into the bush I went. Of course a Moderate track after 70mm+ of rain, isn’t quite as easy as it would be in the dry. But I made it up. (Note to Self, must get fitter ).

So back to the photo, knowing I was going to photograph a waterfall, I had taken the tripod with me. If you are going to shoot waterfalls a tripod is always a must if you want water blur. The other thing that is a good part of your kit are some ND Filters so you can shoot longer exposures during the day. Lucky for me, as I don’t own any, was the fact it was very dull and overcast and the surrounds of the waterfall were in a deep gully.

A quick succession of test shots, 1/10th , ½, and 1 second exposures to get the right water effect and I was happy. I could shoot at F22 ( the minimum aperture on the Tokina 11-16mm lens ) at 1second and not over blow the shot. I tried about 50 shots whilst I was there, and walked away with two I was happy with.

One is a crop of a portrait shot, to create a vertical panorama. The other is the more typical landscape shot. The shots were geotagged with Geosetter when I got home and minimal post processing in Lightroom 3.

I was happy with both of them. So the moral of the story is, follow your instinct, or at least the car in front of you to get a good photo.

Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 1
Aperture f/22.0
Focal Length 11 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Date and Time 2010:10:31 20:56:35
Exposure Program Shutter speed priority AE
Focal Length In 35mm 16 mm
Scene Capture Type Standard
GPS Latitude 37 deg 46′ 32.67″ S
GPS Longitude 145 deg 42′ 28.05″ E
GPSAltitude Ref Above Sea Level
GPSAltitude 482 m
Lens 11.0-16.0 mm f/2.8

And the Landscape Version:
La La Falls

Of course both of these are on Redbubble as well

Click here for the Vertical Shot and Here for the Landscape Version